I have had the most amazing day and seen some outstanding things that many visitors to Delhi would never see, thanks to Raj Dhar, a specialist guide who knows not only how to show you, but how to involve you in the cultural life of Old Delhi.
In sharp contrast to New Delhi, which is full of wide avenues and Lutyen’s buildings, Old Delhi is packed with narrow lanes lined with shops, bustling bazaars, small temples and shrines, and old havelis (private mansions in which a single family has been living for generations). Cows wander the streets and people go about all manner of works, including making of some of the most delicious (and safe to eat) street food!
We arrived in Old Delhi by rickshaw and began this walking tour with a little history and superstition. Here you will see chillies and lemons hanging from doorways. Many of the shops and homes follow this practice as it is believed that it brings good luck, and helps to keep evil spirits out. The lemon-chilli bunches are changed every Saturday and, if it has gone bad, then the person whose property it is will seek a blessing to get rid of the negativity and ill-will.
Walking up one of the busy commercial streets, Raj spoke to us about the history of Old Delhi and its architecture. He taught us the distinctions in the juxtaposed styles of building: the Hindus mainly used stone and wood, the Muslims used bricks and the British introduced iron when they came to India in the early 1800’s. I found it fascinating to compare all of these original structures, dating them back to when they were built and by whom.
There is so much activity in the streets, much of it food-orientated. Many of the stalls are family run and have been so for generations. We tasted buffalo milk that had been whipped up at 3:00 am. The milk is whipped so much that it is insanely fluffy and creamy, and sugar and sweet paste was added on top which just enhanced the taste; it’s so tasty.
The general greeting used here is, “ram ram” which is a respectful greeting based on the Hindu deity, Ram, and is sometimes made with folded palms. The Indians roll their R’s so effortlessly; with my British accent it didn’t sound nearly as good!
We watched bread being made in traditional stone ovens – these take an hour to heat up in the early morning but then only minutes to cook the bread once it has heated up. Two poker-style sticks are used to get the bread out; one with a hook to stab the bread and the other to scrape it off the sides of the stone.
Further on we came across a Paan stall. This tradition (like many others in Old and New Delhi) goes back hundreds of years. Paan is a betal 
leaf rolled up with sweet things in the middle; nuts some of the time too. If there is tobacco included then – rather than swallowing it like you would with normal paan – you would spit it out and the spit would be bright red from the tobacco.
Further on there was more food to try: kachoris with green chutney, and a lassi each, served in a terracotta pot cup; a yoghurt drink that tastes a little like a dessert. This stall has been making lassis and sweets for over 100 years – truly yummy!
The walking tour didn’t just stay on the ground, there is so much going on above too! Raj led us up to the rooftops where we watched four men “pigeon hunting”. With piercing whistles they controlled the flight of the birds so they would mix with other flocks and mate with them. The sight and sound of 10 or 15 different flocks flying around the sky was amazing. It was such a surprise, something we would never have known about.
A couple of us were decorated with henna, or mehndi, on our hands and forearms. The talented artists made it look so easy, the patterns seeming to flow out of their fingertips.
It looked so delicate and pretty; it was just hard walking through the streets trying not to knock it as it dried!
Our next big treat was bangles! Tucked away, in the middle of nowhere was a beautiful bangle shop with all the coloured bangles all organised and presented so carefully. We felt awesome with our henna and bangles, such a treat!
We made our way through the back lanes to a haveli – one that had been beautifully preserved in its original state throughout the family’s generations. The owner showed us around the rooms which were full of intricate hand-painted designs and interconnected with wooden shutters. The first floor balcony wraps all the way around the central space. From here there is open sky above, allowing fresh air to circulate the building, and a stunning marble floor below, slightly sloped so that when the rains come, it drains away out the front door.
We had a traditional, home-cooked lunch here in this haveli; eating and drinking from thalis. The food was delicious. The owner explained how the same meal will often taste 
totally different from family to family – each using their own spices and methods of cooking.
I will take so many things away with me from my walking experience. Old Delhi is truly beautiful and I would never have seen such a personal side of it if it weren’t for Raj, who was such a friendly and knowledgeable guide, so thank you!
Izzie Kay